01Pangong Tso
A 134-km saltwater lake at 4,350m, shared with Tibet. Its water shifts from turquoise to deep indigo through the day against bare golden hills.
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Where high passes meet impossibly blue lakes
Ladakh begins the moment your flight drops between bare brown mountains into Leh. From there it is switchback roads over five-thousand-metre passes, prayer flags snapping in thin cold air, and the first sight of Pangong Tso turning from turquoise to indigo. Nights are silent, star-heavy and cold enough for a second blanket.
01A 134-km saltwater lake at 4,350m, shared with Tibet. Its water shifts from turquoise to deep indigo through the day against bare golden hills.
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02A white-domed peace pagoda above Leh, built by Japanese and Ladakhi Buddhists. Climb the steps at dusk for the whole valley turning gold.
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03A twelve-storey monastery stacked up a hillside like a small Potala. Arrive at dawn for horns, conch shells and the monks' morning prayers.
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04Over Khardung La lies a desert valley of grey sand dunes at Hunder, where shaggy double-humped Bactrian camels, Silk Road leftovers, still carry riders.
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05The pass to Nubra, famed as one of the world's highest motorable roads. Prayer flags, snow underfoot and a signboard everyone stops to photograph.
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