01Dal Lake
Srinagar's living centre. A hand-paddled shikara glides past houseboats and floating gardens while snow-topped mountains ring the far shore — the ride everyone remembers, best taken at sunset.
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Wooden shikaras, chinar gold and Himalayan snow
Srinagar runs on water. You wake on a cedar houseboat, hear a shikara paddle slap the surface, and learn that the lake's vegetable sellers finished trading before you had tea. Then the valley opens out — Mughal terraces stepping up towards the Zabarwan hills, chinars turning copper, and a gondola that lifts you straight onto Gulmarg's snowfields.
01Srinagar's living centre. A hand-paddled shikara glides past houseboats and floating gardens while snow-topped mountains ring the far shore — the ride everyone remembers, best taken at sunset.
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02Two and a half hours from Srinagar, the Lidder runs glacier-blue between pine slopes. Base yourself here for Betaab Valley, Aru, and easy riverside walks.
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03Before sunrise, growers from Dal Lake's floating gardens paddle out and trade greens, gourds and lotus stems boat to boat. It packs up soon after dawn — set an alarm.
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04One of the world's highest cable cars climbs from Gulmarg's meadow to the Apharwat ridge. Snow underfoot even in spring, and skiing on tap right through winter.
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05Marigold beds, chinar shade and stepped water channels running down towards Dal Lake. Asaf Khan laid these terraces out in 1633 and they still stop people mid-path.
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